Anything beyond that may require mechanical repair. Alfa Romeo's diagnostics procedure start with a check of relays and fuses which, fortunately, are also the easiest to access and most likely culprits. An ESS (Engine Stop/Start) circuit adds to that algorithmic complexity. So the "no start" or "no fire" condition can be difficult to track down. I just can't seem to remember to turn that stupid thing off.Ĭlick to expand.There are a number of factors taken into account for modern, computer controlled cars to consider before an engine can be started. And one of the stop/start disable boxes from alfissimo. I just ordered a 2nd one to throw in the glove box for emergencies. The application listed on rock is for a 2012 Fiat 500 accessory relay (my wife has a 500, so it was easy to verify as the same relay), but they seem to be used for many purposes in a wide range of Fiats. I got mine from rock auto, but they seem to be on ebay and amazon as well. It is rated for 30A and in this application, it is fused at 20 so we should be good there. I tried one since I live a good ways from the nearest dealer and maybe the alternate unit will be more reliable than the Omron. These relays are a common Fiat part and they are available as an Italian aftermarket part. The relay pods are very well gasketed and I found nice tight contacts without even a trace of corrosion or heat damage. I ended up removing the clips from the car, reuniting them with the relay and then pushing them back into the holes together. The sockets are nearly impossible to get back into their mounting clips. It was in the same position in the socket as shown in the original post. Of course the starter is in the top (hard to reach) one. They were mounted with 2 down low and one above. On my 2018, all 3 sockets had 2 relays in them. I eventually fiddled with the car enough to get it restarted but it was pretty scary. In traffic because i forgot to disable the stop start. ![]() One of the big advances in car electrics was the development and consistent use of well designed connectors that held onto the feed wiring, clamped the connectors together firmly and in a way that required effort to disconnect and water exclusion designs. If that makes a difference try sealing the connection point with dielectric grease before reconnecting. Infiltration of water can cause a good connection to go bad over time, for example.Īnother useful diagnostic tool for electrical faults is to spray the connector terminals with electrical contact cleaner. The act of replacing a relay can mask a bad connection problem. Each time you pull and reinstall a relay you also refresh the electrical connection. Two quick failures suggest to me that the relay may not be the fault. ![]() Only if the previously working function also stops working have you correctly diagnosed the fault. You need to test the relay you remove by sticking it into the empty spot vacated by using the known good relay. To test for that you should always swap a suspect relay, not just replace the suspect with a known good relay. Don't rule out the possibility of a bad connector.
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